BULAWAYO MEMORIES

Other Centres - Salisbury nostalgia by Llewellyn Hughes

Salisbury – A trip down Zimbabwe’s Gourmet Lane 1979 – 2018

Written by: Llewellyn Hughes

During the late 70’s our Country was involved in an independent struggle and most of the males were involved in some form of military service.  I noticed that the norm was that once we had finished a tour of duty most of us initially got drunk with the same mates we had spent a long time together with and then take our girlfriend / wife and families out for a meal.  The four most popular restaurants in 1978 were run by an Italian (Da Guido) a Greek (Akropilis), a Portuguese (Pinos) and an Irishman (the Hunting Lodge).  None of which were involved in the struggle.  Along with a friend of mine, Dave Haslehurst, we embarked on opening a restaurant which was owned by locals.  We bought the Cossack Steakhouse in Fife Avenue and opened up the Clovagalix Restaurant in February 1979.  The name Clovagalix was derived from the Asterix comics which was a play on the words A CLOVE OF GARLIC.

The first restaurant in the then named Salisbury was opened up in Manica Road and was called POCKETS GRILL – this restaurant subsequently moved to Stanley Avenue next to the departmental store Haddon and Sly.  Manica Road was quite a dangerous place to own a restaurant.  Over the years the PINK PANTHER had a petrol bomb thrown in it, Mr Kee of the BAMBOO INN was found hanging in his cold room and THE KANGAROO TEA ROOM at 82 Manica Road suffered from a bomb been placed in the Zanu-PF headquarters.  The MANDARIN Chinese Restaurant being on the Mezzanine floor survived all the action.  If I use Manica Road as my starting point and go up towards the then Jameson Avenue the first restaurant one would come to had chairs placed on the pavement with patrons almost sitting in the car park. This was the WISE DONKEY (this of course has become the norm in coffee shops around the world).  You then came to H M BARBOURS which had a wonderful restaurant on the 3rd floor, where in my day my Granny used to take us there for a treat – scones and hot cross buns being our favourite tea.  This was in the early 60’s and this restaurant was the first business establishment to initiate eco-cash; if you remember we used to put the money in an air capsule and send it to the accounts department.  In todays language air becoming eco.  Across the road from BARBOURS was another departmental store called SANDERS which housed the BIRDCAGE.  I remember me and my mates going there to watch the ladies model their clothes.  Names I seem to remember were Ashley Crichton, Sue Friend and Lynn Hulley.  Further up First Street a WIMPY was situated and other restaurants were the LOUNGE the RHODIAN and NATIES GRILL which was owned by Burt Nathan.  At the end of First Street was the BOMBAY DUCK which was owned by Tug Wilson. He later sold to Tom Swift whose granddaughter Chantal Boshi now owns the SPICE TRADER with her husband Hamish. 

There were various steak houses around the city centre the ones I remember being the ARIZONA, the RENDEZVOUS, GEORGIAN GRILL and SIZZLERS.  There were also several ethnic restaurants in the area LA PIZZERIA was owned by Sherrol who later moved into the Park.  DA GUIDOS which was famous for its pasta and T-bone and a free orange for dessert – one never ever received a bill with patrons paying the owner as they exited the restaurant.  Perusal of the account the following day always resulted in a few extra beers etc being added to cover ones dishonesty.  Next to the state lotteries hall was situated DEMI’S RESTAURANT and across Moffatt Street was an arcade where the GREEK TAVERNA, COVERED WAGON and the popular HOMEGROWN restaurant each had a turn plying their trade.  Janice Roberts of the HOMEGROWN to this day is still in the restaurant trade.  Further into the ‘cows guts’ as it was called, was the COPACABANNA Portuguese restaurant specialising obviously in peri-peri chicken and prawns.  The owner of this establishment got divorced and his wife and daughter became the first owners of COIMBRA restaurant then CASCAIS and now the daughter is the owner of the popular PAULA’S restaurant in Greendale.  On Kingsway were the ever popular SANDROS and EROS TAVERNA.  Behind the Holiday Inn was the TAVERN ATHENA owned by Mano Babliokis who now owns a restaurant in Bahrain. 

We have all at some time visited the Linquenda Arcade, in the basement was the CIVIL SERVICE CLUB then CLUB TOMORROW and then ARCHIPELAGO and on the first floor was the MOKADOR TEA ROOM.  There were several restaurants in the Avenues.  CLOVAGALIX of which I have already mentioned.  This restaurant became famous for its Wednesday night sing-a-long type entertainment.  Entertainers included the likes of Tim & Pat Sherry, Frazer Mackay, Paul Edwards, Robbie Kroeger, Bud Cockcroft and the long standing, ever popular Graham Hall amongst others.  Also in Fife Avenue was the CARVERY restaurant and OLD DUBLIN bar which was initially owned by Brian Horgan and then Brian Da Quino.  This venue had a terrible incident in the early 1980’s when a deranged solider positioned himself at the top of the stairs on Christmas Day and shot passers-by sadly killing two people.  ALEXANDERS (Bill & Irene Beckitt), COIMBRA (Tony Simoes), VILLA PERI / POINTE, SPAGOS / MAMMA MIA / FAT MAMMAS (Nick & Annette Kalamatis) were all popular outlets.  COIMBRA still exists and still remains as popular as ever.

Suburban restaurants were DELHI PALACE (Bob & Nikki) THE SITAR (Kieran) BEEFEATER (John Lashbrook) THE CELLAR, NICKS / HIGH CHAPPERAL, AKROPOLIS (Spiro Vlismis, Ian Robertson, Terry Rossiter), LE FRANCAIS (Rodger Seegmuller), TAVERN BACCHUS (Joan Botha), ADRIENNE’s (Barret Family), CASA MIA, THE LIGHTHOUSE, ALO ALO (Adrienne and Lesley), APHRODITE (Jimmy), KEG & SABLE (Ian Miller) BISTRO, The HOWFF (Peter Morrison & Jerome Van Niekerk), LEONARDOS (Daniel Marini) and EL CASTILLIAN to name but a few.  Mention must be made of WOMBLES restaurant – it began at Borrowdale Tea Cosy in Foley Court and became known as a place where the elderly police reservists on their night watch would pop in for an Irish coffee or two.  They became known as The Wombles.  It then moved to behind the Village into a suburban house which was subsequently knocked down and initially turned into the bowling alley and now the Spar.  Wombles moved to Ballantyne Park where it became MILLERS GRILL and now is CORKIES pub & restaurant.  Borrowdale Tea Cosy became Café Med until 2010 when Millers Café was built and now houses Garfunkel’s Grill.  DV8 in Groombridge also deserves a mention it was initiated by the manager of DEMI’s restaurant which as mentioned before was near the State Lotteries building, he wanted Northern suburb residents to ‘deviate’ to Groombridge instead. 

Over the years there were many fine restaurants that were located in hotels around the city.  MEIKLES HOTEL still houses the longest standing restaurant which is LA FONTAINE which began in 1958.  In December of this year it celebrates its 60th anniversary and the hotel will commemorate this with a re-incarnation of the 1958 menu.  I urge all to try attend this wonderful occasion.

The Ambassador (BIRD & BOTTLE), the Courtney (LE SCARGOT), Windsor (The COLONY and LINCOLN ROOM), Monomatapa (12 000 HORSEMAN and BALI HAI), Jameson (TIFFANY’S).  Other hotels were the Oasis, Beverly Rocks, George, Kamfimsa Park, Highlands Park, Parklane, RedFox, Kentucky and the Quorn also deserve a mention.

There were of course late night joints the GREMLIN, BLUE GARDINIA, YELLOW ORCHID and MADEIRA / MAPLE LEAF and ROSE BOWL.  We used to have fun at The Gremlin with the sign in the carpark which read Flick your lights for service.  A nominated scoundrel would run out and join the L and I together and we would drive away roaring with laughter. 

Before finishing one has to mention restaurants in other cities :
Bulawayo (GRENADA, SELBOURNE, PEIKING, HOTEL VICTORIA, MAISON NIC and LA GONDOLA)
Mutare (MANICA HOTEL, THE TERRACE and THE LITTLE SWALLOW)
Rusape (BELFOUR HOTEL)
Victoria Falls (VIC FALLS HOTEL, ELEPHANT HILLS and others)
Kariba (CUTTY SARK, LAKE VIEW INN, CARIBBEA BAY, KARIBA BREEZES)


During my 40 years in the trade I have had several partners.  As mentioned Dave Haslehurst and also Patrick Murphy, Danie & Irma Reitz, David Lake & Roy Wentzel, Kevin O’Brien, Sue Ziehl, Ant Berans & Peta Evans, Ian Miller and presently Rob Davenport and his Garfunkel’s Team. 

I have survived 4 Presidents, 3 fires, 2 marriages and 1 plastic chip fryer!

Finally I would like to acknowledge my fellow restaurateurs Attilio Viggoretti, Sherrol Hickey, Keith Boshi, Mrs & Mrs Kilinkoss, Daniel Marini, The Bray Family, Tim Wilson and Amanda Wessels to name but a few.

As it is Father’s Day or perhaps Grandfathers Day I leave you with a bit of advice, if your children want to go into my trade I suggest you say to them “if you want to see your face – look in the mirror.  But if you want to see your arse buy a restaurant!”

Llewellyn Hughes

P.S. a special thanks to John Dawson and Stan Higgins who helped me compile this trip down gourmet lane.

A little bit about Llew :
Whilst Llew’s great reputation as a restaurateur goes back to 1978, he’s also a celebratory raconteur, earning him the nickname “BBC” (Borrowdale Broadcasting Corporation) he guarantees that there is ‘an element of truth’ in all his stories.  Besides his encyclopaedic knowledge of cricket, he was previously the owner of Clovagalix Restaurant, in the Fife Avenue shopping centre and contributed to the National GDP by keeping several generations of firemen gainfully employed!